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Author
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Topic: Your opinion please - 996 visits (1 today, 3 this week)
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Joe Siegfried Member
        Posts: 147 From:Antelope California Registered: Nov 2003
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posted March 03, 2004 07:05 AM
Take a look at this picture and tell me what you think the cause of this might be please...I'm thinking it's just from dropping something in the sink which caused it to chip (more than once) I heard from another source that it's caused by rust? if this is the case, please explain it to me.Click for photo (10910 Bytes) Thanks in advance
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Chad Fabry Member
    Posts: 80 From:Rochester New York Registered: Nov 2003
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posted March 03, 2004 07:19 AM
Both are probably correct. The initial damage was likely in the form of a small chip or several small chips that violated the water proof ceramic that coats iron sinks and tubs. Once the iron is exposed water contacts it and rust forms. Iron oxides take up a lot more room than the iron itself so as the water migrates beneath the porcelain and the iron rusts, the rust "pops" off the surface above it.------------------ OK, I'm done now, Chad |
Eric Van De Ven Member
          Posts: 639 From:Coconut Creek, Florida Registered: Mar 2001
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posted March 03, 2004 07:40 AM
What does the bottom of the sink look like? On older sinks, the emergency drain is spot welded to the bottom of the sink and a small leak at the drain will migrate to the seam causing the sink to rust out. The newer sinks have plastic emergency drains to prevent this.------------------ Eric Van De Ven I still get paid to be suspicious when there is nothing to be suspicious about! Magnum Inspections Inc. magnuminspections.com |
Joe Siegfried Member
        Posts: 147 From:Antelope California Registered: Nov 2003
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posted March 03, 2004 08:23 AM
There was nothing noticeable under the sink as far as rust goes or staining of any kind. The sink is only 15 years old. Masterbath had 2 sinks both with this "condition. Hall bath had small chips as well. Click for photo (26034 Bytes) Click for photo (16553 Bytes)
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Rick Hurst Member
         Posts: 337 From:Rowlett, TX Registered: Oct 2003
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posted March 03, 2004 08:30 AM
Joe, it may not have rust at this time on the bottom but it will eventually. Just a matter of time.We always comment that the sink will need to be replaced. Very few times have I seen a patch hold up on these chipped or rusted areas. Click for photo (56067 Bytes)
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Joe Siegfried Member
        Posts: 147 From:Antelope California Registered: Nov 2003
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posted March 03, 2004 09:20 AM
Rick, Eric, Chad....Thanks to all of you for your replys. I sent out an addendum this morning. That was a great explanation Chad...Gonna have to save that one.Joe [This message has been edited by Joe Siegfried (edited March 03, 2004).] |
Jerry Peck Member
            Posts: 1344 From:Pembroke Pines, FL Registered: Feb 2003
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posted March 03, 2004 08:26 PM
That is from a leaking overflow.The overflows are either spot welded (the old way) or siliconed (the new way) to the bottom of the metal sinks. When water gets between the overflow and the sink bottom, it rusts, which pushes up on the metal sink bottom, which then pops off the porcelain enamel. Look carefully at the overflows under the sinks (probably will not have to look very carefully once you've looked at one) and you will see the leakage and the rust. Any rust means is it leaking, if not *out from* the joint, it is leaking to where it should not be, hence the rust. ------------------ Jerry Peck South Florida |
Joe Nernberg Member
       Posts: 331 From:Agoura Hills, CA Registered: Jan 2001
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posted March 03, 2004 09:46 PM
These are "enameled steel sinks" and the damage is always more noticeable from underneath. Fill this basin with hot water and you should be able to hear the rivets pop/expand.------------------ Joe Nernberg |
David Valley Member
     Posts: 108 From:Methuen, MA Registered: May 2003
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posted March 04, 2004 03:01 AM
Looks like these people wash engine parts in their sinks.------------------ David Valley Methuen, MA. |
Russel Kirk Member
         Posts: 980 From:San Diego, California Registered: May 2002
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posted March 05, 2004 11:21 AM
From my down-home experience renovating porcelain and porcelain-enameled sinks, I'll go with Chad on this one. |
Jerry Peck Member
            Posts: 1344 From:Pembroke Pines, FL Registered: Feb 2003
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posted March 05, 2004 04:05 PM
I repeat (sorry about this):It's from the overflow under the sink. Bend down, look at the over flow, you will see it rusting. That rust pushes up agains the bottom of the sink, popping off the porcelain enamal surface, which then rusts. Nothing has to be dropped into the sink to cause that. Overflow pattern under sink matches rust pattern ------------------ Jerry Peck South Florida |
Russel Kirk Member
         Posts: 980 From:San Diego, California Registered: May 2002
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posted March 05, 2004 05:54 PM
While Jerry's scenario is possible, Chad's is more likely.Porcelain enamel, when done properly (and this sink might have had a weak spot due to poor quality control), is stronger than the rust. Therefore, the rust, if there was any prior to the damage, will push in toward the overflow space (air) rather than breaking through the porcelain. Air is far weaker than porcelain. Something dropped in the sink, however, can create that minute crack that will allow the rust to push up, but usually it's from rusting directly under the porcelain rather than from rust in the air space. Remember that the iron is rather thick, all things considered. Therefore, for it to rust from inside the overflow drain space and push up and break the porcelain is unlikely. It is more likely that someone dropped something in the sink (happens quite often) which damaged the porcelain enamel, allowed water underneath, and voila! Chips. And if the people were there a long time, and never took care of the initial damage, and continued to drop things in the sink, additional damage. Considering all the chips here, it's probably a combination of initial damage followed by rusting underneath the porcelain enamel. Even if one bends down and looks at the overflow drain in the sink cabinet, one is only looking at the bottom of the overflow drain. On top of that drain bottom is air space and then the top of the air space and then the porcelain enamel. See the Figure. Figure Click for photo (10579 Bytes) It’s unlikely that rust at E is going to travel all the way through D, C, and B, to push up against the porcelain enamel A. However, if A is damaged, water penetrates through the porcelain enamel to the iron layer B, and starts to rust, causing additional damage through rusting and additional weakness to the iron substrate base of the porcelain enamel. Porcelain enamel is actually quite weak and needs a very firm substrate in order not to crack. If you’ve ever installed a porcelain tile floor, you’ll understand that. Just go look at an improperly installed porcelain enamel tile floor. If that base is not there or was not installed properly, those porcelain enamel tiles will crack just thinking about them. Same thing here. Once the substrate base for the porcelain begins rusting, a simple push on the porcelain sometimes is all that is necessary for a chip to pop and more chips to continue to pop. One doesn’t even have to drop anything in the sink once the initial damage is done and not repaired. If this is a very old sink, Jerry’s scenario could occur simply because everything is rusted, including the bottom of the overflow drain space and the inside of the overflow drain space. But this sink doesn’t look old enough for that to have happened. Porcelain enamel also wears out. I have a sink in my kitchen where we have taken so much steel wool to it over the years to clean it that it now has no porcelain enamel left on it. Time to replace it. By the way, when I was doing porcelain sink and porcelain-enamel sink renovation, we commonly found that the rust that Jerry is talking about is caused by storing caustic chemicals in our sink cabinets. Rarely is there significant rust in the actual overflow drain air space. Here’s a standard paragraph that I put in my reports to help my Clients understand that sink cabinets are the incorrect place to store caustic chemicals. This is from the "In Plain English" section of my reports, so it is kind of chatty for the layperson; the Realtors and Clients love it. Quote Sink cabinets and chemical storage—Think about what’s typically located in your sink cabinets: the underside of metal sinks, garbage disposal metal casing, copper water supply pipes, and plastic or metal drainage pipes. Plastic and metal are affected by corrosive chemicals, and continued corrosion and rusting can eventually result in leaks. Most people, though, store everyday chemicals in the sink cabinets (see Illustration 1). Illustration 1 Click for photo (46606 Bytes) This is the absolute wrong place to store such items because most cleaning chemicals by their very nature are corrosive. So, do not store chemicals in sink cabinets. Additionally, children won’t gain access to harmful and dangerous chemicals. And no one ever takes all those chemicals out of the sink cabinets to inspect the cabinet floor and the water and drainage pipes—unless they’re moving, a significant leak is noticed, or a child is injured after gaining access to the chemicals. Water supply and drainage pipes should be monitored regularly, and here’s how to do it virtually on a daily basis with no effort at all on your part: Store dry materials (towels, bathroom tissue, boxes, etc.) in sink cabinets (see Illustration 2). Illustration 2 Click for photo (38093 Bytes) This type of storage allows one to check for leaks in sink cabinets each time something dry is removed. If normally dry materials are wet, check for leaks or deteriorated caulking/grouting around the sink and countertop, and have a qualified plumber repair or replace any plumbing components or have the deteriorated caulking/grouting repaired. So where should you store such chemicals? A high cabinet in the garage or at an exterior location is great, but if you must keep them inside, an upper hallway closet, the cabinet above the microwave oven, or the cabinet above the refrigerator make great interior locations. Unquote Hope this helps everyone. [This message has been edited by Russel Kirk (edited March 05, 2004).] |
neal lewis Member
     Posts: 355 From:Ridgewood, N.J. Registered: Jun 2001
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posted March 05, 2004 08:44 PM
I still think the cause is the bulders who use the cheapest Goddam steel sinks available that only last 15 years.Maybe the new plastic and silicone overflow type will last longer... maybe 20 years. |
Tim Lorenson Member
  Posts: 200 From:Roseville California Registered: Feb 2003
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posted March 05, 2004 11:55 PM
Jerry is right,I have serviced rentals for 24 years. They usually have steel tubs, kitchen sinks, and lavatory sinks. The only fixtures that exhibit this behavior are the lav sinks with spot welded overflow tubes. The other fixtures chip, but they do not spread out much from the original chip. I have never seen this in a cast iron sink except where damaged by an outside force (and it still does not make the same pattern). The pattern in these sinks always follows the path of the welds. Further evidence was observed when I lived in a cheap studio apartment. I was sitting on my couch watching TV when I heard the sound of breaking glass. I went into the bathroom and saw dime sized porcelain chips on the counter. The places they had exploded from were not rusted. The rust that forms between the two pieces of steel expands and exerts enough force to flex the steel to the point that the porcelain shatters from the surface of the steel sink. Tim Lorenson |
Russel Kirk Member
         Posts: 980 From:San Diego, California Registered: May 2002
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posted March 06, 2004 12:07 AM
I've seen the type of chipping in the original picture in all sinks that are porcelain-enameled with any type of a metal base. Since all the porcelain-enameled sinks were old (that's most of the reason they were being renovated), there was no statistical difference between those with spot welds and any others. Porcelain enamel is porcelain enamel, and it is very easy to damage and chip. Once it is damaged, it's like a chain of dominoes. Damage will be continuing and ongoing. If something was not dropped in the sink to create that initial damage, and everything else works out (for example, someone like me doesn't take steel wool to it every Saturday), porcelain enamel will simply wear out from old age, typically exhibiting thousands of small, minute cracks. In asphalt and concrete, we would call it alligatoring. It's rare to find an extremely old porcelain-enameled sink that hasn't been damaged from something being dropped in the sink and being chipped. |
Tim Lorenson Member
  Posts: 200 From:Roseville California Registered: Feb 2003
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posted March 06, 2004 07:34 AM
Russel,Maybe I should qualify my statements. I am seeing this in steel sinks about 15 years old.(not very old in my opinion) The damage forms as two parallel lines running between the drain and the overflow hole. In iron sinks and steel sinks without overflows, I see chips, they just don't follow this pattern. (see doctored photo) Click for photo (31201 Bytes) The only time I'm wrong about something like this, is when I am... Tim Lorenson |
Russel Kirk Member
         Posts: 980 From:San Diego, California Registered: May 2002
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posted March 06, 2004 12:22 PM
If you look at Joe's third picture and look at the mirror image, the chips don't seem to be anywhere near the overflow drain space. In the second picture, they do kind of line up, but the problem there is that the chips go too far past the drain on the other side. I'm just not convinced.As I said, Jerry's scenario is possible. Based on my experience in renovating and refurbishing porcelain and porcelain-enameled sinks, though, I just don't think it's the case here. Of course, Joe could go back out and get some pictures of exactly how the overflow drain space lined up and we might be able to put this to rest. Nah, then we wouldn't have any fun. By the way, if you have any porcelain or porcelain-enameled sinks that are in bad shape and you don't want them any more, send them down this way. There's a booming market here for renovated and refurbished porcelain and porcelain-enameled sinks. [This message has been edited by Russel Kirk (edited March 06, 2004).] |
Eric Barker Member
    Posts: 75 From:Barrington, IL Registered: Mar 2001
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posted March 06, 2004 06:46 PM
In our area you could bet that this is a Briggs sink. They had significant problem with rusting where the overflow channel was welded to the basin. If you come across these sinks always run water through the overflow. It would not be a bad idea to let the client know to monitor these sinks. The newer sinks have an adhesive applied to the channel, no longer welded. |
Russel Kirk Member
         Posts: 980 From:San Diego, California Registered: May 2002
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posted March 06, 2004 08:33 PM
I always run water through the overflow on every sink, bar none. | |